My stance on the lab-grown vs. natural debate: a personal view on diamonds

As the founder of a high jewellery brand, I am well-versed and actively involved in the continuous conversation surrounding lab-grown and natural diamonds. Through active engagement, I am committed to empowering consumers by providing them with valuable insights that broaden their perspectives and ignite their passions. In this intricate and ever-evolving landscape, it is my responsibility to offer an alternative viewpoint that unravels the intricacies of this discussion and shapes the future trajectory of the jewellery industry.

Before delving into the lab-grown and natural diamonds debate, I would like to highlight that my commitment is firmly grounded in a vision that prioritises responsible and equitable practices of natural diamond mining, with the ultimate goal of fostering a future where all stakeholders from the humble miner to board members in the Northern Hemisphere thrive. Central to this vision is the unwavering support for mining communities and the promotion of sustainable practices.

Let us embark on a journey guided by authenticity and honesty, engaging in meaningful dialogue as we work towards a future that aligns the value and authenticity of diamonds with the importance of sustainability and social responsibility.

1. Preserving Authenticity: Unveiling the Natural Transformation of Carbon into Diamonds

As the founder of VANLELES, I am dedicated to recognising the intrinsic value of carbon and its natural transformation into diamonds deep within the Earth's upper mantle. For centuries, this process has captivated and continues to inspire the jewellery world.

In the pursuit of understanding more about lab-grown production, it is essential that the world understands the need to carefully consider the potential implications and consequences arising with this innovative method. Environmental sustainability should be at the forefront of the considerations, encompassing responsible resource utilisation, mindful energy consumption management, and the mitigation of interconnected environmental impacts.

Tied to that, I hold a deep appreciation for Africa's renowned natural reserves and their significant contribution to the precious gemstone industry. As an African jewellery designer, this connection holds a special place in my heart. I firmly believe that the enduring processes of high pressure and high temperature encountered within Earth, which naturally transform carbon into diamonds over thousands of years, bring forth an extraordinary value, representing authentic treasures. Hence, at VANLELES, we wholeheartedly only use natural diamonds and we dedicate ourselves to honouring and accentuating the remarkable origin of these exquisite gems, found in diverse African countries. Our unwavering commitment to sustainability is deeply ingrained in our sourcing practices, ensuring a harmonious balance between preserving the Earth's resources and enhancing the social and economic well-being of the mining communities.

In my opinion, carbon-transformed diamonds, forged through the natural interplay of high pressure and high temperature that is produced by nature, radiate an unparalleled fascination. Each diamond carries a unique narrative, reflecting its incredible journey from the uncharted depths of the Earth to the final piece of jewellery. As the founder of VANLELES, I am devoted to recognizing the intrinsic value and beauty inherent in these diamonds. Through our designs, we aim to capture a diamonds’ timeless beauty, captivating those who have the privilege of wearing them. Moreover, we honour these gemstones by supporting an important balance between sustainability and the well-being of the mining communities.

2. Towards Sustainable Mining: A Joint Effort

When consumers opt for lab-grown, they perceive themselves as contributing to sustainable development and mitigating the ethical and environmental violations associated with traditional mining practices. However, responsible sourcing encompasses more than just the choice of diamonds. It requires a holistic approach, considering the broader impacts of the entire supply chain and prioritising the well-being of communities reliant on the mining of natural diamonds.

Rather than hastily embracing what some people perceive as a superior alternative, I firmly believe in conducting a thorough examination and understanding the measures necessary to ensure responsible mining practices. Recognizing the importance of conscious diamond mining practices and the need to protect the human asset that depends on this industry, it is essential to confront challenging questions regarding responsible mining and advocate for a comprehensive assessment (and enforcement) of sustainable practices that encompass the entire mining and jewellery industry. By adopting this approach, we call the mining companies to action and promote collaborative efforts towards responsible practices.

In my perspective, mining companies play a critical role in the mining communities as primary employers and resource providers, carrying the responsibility for the well-being of local communities. However, it is vital to acknowledge that the mining industry involves a diverse range of stakeholders, including governments, regulatory bodies, communities, designers, jewellery manufacturers, retailers, and finally consumers. To achieve sustainable development and address complex challenges, fostering collaboration and collective efforts among all stakeholders is essential. Instead of attributing blame, we should prioritise collaboration and open honest dialogue.

Recognising the significance of adopting sustainable practices aligned with present demands and paving the way for a sustainable future is crucial. By doing so, mining companies and other stakeholders can contribute to the preservation of natural resources and positively impact the communities in which they operate. Embracing responsible mining practices enables us to enhance community well-being and environmental harmony, ensuring a sustainable relationship between gem extraction and the overall welfare of all parties involved.

Let’s take a moment to reflect on the operations of mining companies half a century ago. In the time that has passed, we have witnessed remarkable progress and advancements. We have transcended the era when mining heavily relied on manual labour and unfair practices. From my perspective, it is crucial to continue to progress on what has been achieved rather than asking the consumer to abandon the industry altogether. Therefore, our collective efforts should be directed towards actively supporting the implementation of sustainable mining practices. It would be unfair and detrimental to overlook the progress made so far. There is still a multitude of possibilities waiting to be realised, and numerous areas where further improvement can be pursued.

3. Nurturing Thriving Communities: Fostering Livelihood Balance

While acknowledging the emergence of lab-grown and the opportunities they create in wealthier nations is important, it is crucial to avoid perpetuating a one-sided dialogue that overlooks the broader context and its implications for the livelihoods of mining communities in poorer countries.

The social and economic significance of countries heavily dependent on natural diamond mining should not be overlooked, as these communities rely on the extraction of natural diamonds for their thriving livelihoods. Historically, the mining industry hasn’t had much to be proud of. However, it did provide employment opportunities and support the local workforce. It wasn’t fair. It wasn’t just. But it provided something.

Therefore, natural diamond mining, when carried out correctly with a focus on the human workforce and the environment, holds utmost importance. These communities have developed unique skills, craftsmanship, and intergenerational knowledge. We need to make a greater effort to empower mining communities and diamond-producing countries so that they can further develop their unique skills in transforming rough diamonds. The intergenerational knowledge within these communities is invaluable and there should be more investment to expand it and to utilise it.

Consequently, any shift away from natural diamonds must be approached with thoughtful consideration to ensure the protection and well-being of these communities. While it is important to acknowledge the advantages of lab-grown in minimising land disruption, it is equally important to consider the social and economic impacts on mining communities that heavily rely on natural diamond extraction. These communities often depend on diamond mining as a vital source of income and employment, making significant contributions to their local economies. Focusing solely on lab-grown without considering the potential consequences for these mining communities may unintentionally neglect their well-being.

A shift toward any other kind of fabricated gemstones could have severe implications, leading to job losses, economic instability, and a decline in the overall well-being of these communities. This holds especially true in regions where mining dominates the economy and alternative employment opportunities are limited. By engaging in a more balanced and inclusive dialogue, we can better understand the complex dynamics at play and the importance of considering the socio-economic factors.

To truly promote sustainability and ethical practices, it is imperative to adopt a holistic approach that takes into account the needs and aspirations of mining communities. This involves exploring ways to support these communities in transitioning to sustainable mining practices or providing alternative livelihood opportunities that ensure their economic stability. Implementing fair trade practices, promoting ethical mining standards, and supporting community development programs can help ensure the well-being of these communities and provide them with a stake in the industry's future.

4. Preserving the Integrity and Distinctiveness of Natural Diamonds

I hold a strong belief in establishing a definitive separation between lab-grown and natural diamonds. In my view, the term diamond should be solely reserved to carbon that has undergone the natural process of formation under high pressure and high temperature within the Earth's upper mantle. This distinction could highlight the significant difference between "diamonds" created in a laboratory and diamonds that have taken millions of years to form. This distinct contrast emphasises the profound difference between them. 

By preserving the term diamond exclusively for natural diamonds, in my view, we show reverence for their geological importance, rarity, value and enduring appeal. Natural diamonds and gemstones serve as a testament to the remarkable forces that shape our planet and the wonders of nature.

From my perspective, emphasising a clear distinction between lab-grown and natural diamonds fosters transparency, accuracy, and integrity for both sectors of the diamond industry. This clarity empowers consumers to make informed decisions and supports the preservation of the natural diamond market, which in turn sustains the communities and economies connected to the mining of these gems.

5. Promoting Responsible Diamond Trading and Mining in Africa for Sustainable Development

I aspire to see an African continent where responsible diamond trading and mining take centre stage, promoting sustainable development and the industrialisation of diamonds. Drawing inspiration from the various diamond bourses around the world, I firmly believe that establishing a fully functioning Diamond Bourse in countries like Botswana and Namibia, is not only desirable but also feasible, provided the industry's stakeholders genuinely have these countries' best interests at heart.

To unlock the potential for a significant positive impact, it is essential to prioritise the trade and the transformation of diamonds within Africa. This approach resonates with my dream of witnessing a transformative revolution in Africa's diamond industry, fostering innovation in diamond trading, and actively promoting sustainable development. By encouraging local trade, this approach not only revitalises the economy but also attracts buyers, stimulates tourism, and provides vital support to local businesses. It is time to recognise that merely building a creche, a school, a clinic, or some roads, doesn't equate to having a significant impact on the local communities. These gestures of kindness would have been perceived as having an impact 100 years ago. Today in the modern world, it is simply not enough. We should not continue to call it impact. For me, what real impact looks like is when a diamond producing country becomes the next Antwerp. 

Gaining a comprehensive understanding of how mining affects the lives of 15 million people is essential to preserving the environment, enhancing well-being, and expanding the distribution of mining benefits to a wider range of stakeholders. To foster a sustainable mining industry in Africa, I advocate for actively engaging with government entities and supporting the establishment and enforcement of fair regulations that ensure responsible and equitable mining practices. By implementing responsible land management, I strive to contribute to the well-being of local communities, the protection of the environment, and the sustainable development of Africa's diamond trading and mining sector.

In conclusion, my perspective on the lab-grown versus natural diamond debate is rooted in a commitment to safeguard the authenticity and value of natural diamonds. At VANLELES, we passionately champion the ethical sourcing of our materials, with African countries at the forefront, and the protection of invaluable resources. With that in mind, my advocacy centres around responsible mining practices prioritising sustainability, environmental responsibility, and the well-being of mining communities. Emphasising the need to improve mining methodologies and achieve transparent diamond origins is critical. Moreover, it is important to acknowledge the need for a balanced discourse that avoids biased comparisons and acknowledges the economic impact intertwined with natural diamonds. Ensuring accountability and establishing trading hubs, such as a Diamond Bourse in an African diamond producing country, is vital to maximise economic benefits for the continent. Together, we can build a future for the jewellery industry that radiates sustainability and preserves the value of each natural diamond.

Yours truly,

Vania xxx